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How to Load and Tie Down a Motorcycle in a Truck or a Trailer
This entry was written by admin, posted on 11/16/2014 at 6:54, filed under Video and tagged Down, Load, Motorcycle, Trailer, Truck. Bookmark the permalink. Follow any comments here with the RSS feed for this post.
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25 Comments
So, how do you get it secured into a truck bed? I only came to this video
because the title spesifically says “truck”. Visibly you lied, shame on
you.
it looks like you may have answered this already but don’t you have to
secure the back tire? I would be loading in a pickup. Cam straps with soft
loops in the front and ratchet’s in the back with soft loops for excellent
measure? Also, I have a small Ford Ranger where the tie-down points are
located more at the top of the bed as opposed to the bottom of the bed –
will they subdue work? Thanks
thanks very informative.
Fantastic video. Helped refresh in loading and securing my rocket.
2:14 it’d be a shame if he drop the clutch
thanks for the info, very helpful
Is it ok to tie the straps nearly the bike’s front axle instead of the
handlebars? I’ve used this with success a number of times, but would
appreciate your views on the same.
Also, I generally use four points to tie down the bike, two at the front
axle and two using either the passenger footpegs or a part of the frame.
So, how do you tie it down on a trailer with a flat floor?
Wow! I’ve been riding since ’81 and transporting my bike since about ’93.
I learned some cool tricks from this video to help me load my bike lonely
safer and simpler than I have been doing. Thanks!
Man what a job on this video!! Very useful tips I learned in it and I’ve
been loading dirtbikes in trucks my whole life. Thanks a lot!
What about the rear tire?
Nice demonstration. I prefer a solid floor on the trailer though so my
foot does not accidently go down through it.
Very excellent demonstration. I have never trailered my bike, but it looks like
I will have to soon.
Yes. the springs need to be compressed “some” not “all” the way. As we have
mentioned, ratchet straps result in bikes been set far too tight which
results in hurt to fork seals, not to mention all the tip-overs we’ve
seen when ratchet straps release all at once. We’ve even seen bikes spring
past the side-stand and out of the bed of a truck to the ground when a
ratchet-strap was released. Every manufacturer ships bikes nearly the world
and every pro-level race team using cam-lock straps.
@NORTY50 If you tie down a bike so tightly that it bends the heli-bars, you
are probably making your straps too tight.
Oh yes…and to the question of “how quick do I drive”? Like on my
Ally Hellcat and FJR, I NEVER exceed the speed limit! ((;
How do you unload the bike safely? By letting it roll down while riding the
front brake to keep it smooth?
I live in NYC and friction straps seems to always loosen after hitting the
100s of pot holes we have. After I went to ratchets never had a problem.
There’s nothing like looking back at a bike being trailered and seeing the
whole thing bouncing up and down with the road. Riding out of state I reckon
the friction straps would be excellent enough.
Ducati 848
I use ratchet tie downs also. To solve the “jerkiness” of them I dripped
some Teflon lubricant on the gear mechanism. It’s a lot smoother now. But 1
of my straps is certainly ruined from 2 harsh northern NY winters +
salt… lol nothing like tieing a keg down in a snow storm. I subdue prefer
their tightening skill compared to other straps though. It’s hard to go
incorrect with a 1,500lb rated ratchet strap and an only 450lb dirt bike
that’s already mostly supported by the truck bed.
Nice video. Here’s a coupla things I’d mention: 1. If you have “Heli-bars”
you may want to not use Canyon Singer equipment as it’ll cause add’l stress
on the bars. 2. Leaning the bike side to side to cinch the tiedows, you
must check for clearance with your rotors and the sides of the rails. 3.
When loading the bike up the ramp, you must check for clearance with
“lowers” and the sides of the rail. For this wits, it’s surpass to push
(with help from a friend) rather than use the engine.
@DiCairo If we know the question correctly, we’d recommend adding a
bar to the tongue of the trailer (like a “T”) with eye-bolts on the ends,
so you can have nice wide tie-down points. You could use giant U-Bolts to
fasten it in place. You may also want to find/borrow a more appropriate
trailer. Additionally, we would NOT tie the bike down to a pit-bull stand.
Place-Bull really makes a rear-stand called a “trailer restraint” that is
designed for that purpose.
@hiimbong Yep, thats the 848 that replaced the Army SV. The only way to
keep the grips in place with either the CanyonDancer or the Cycle Cinch is
to protection wire your grips.
I have a hard time with the “not compressing the springs too much” advice.
If you have a bouncy trailer the suspension travel can be so much that the
strap’s hook comes undone when you go over bumpy roads and your dirt bike
cascade over. In my experience there needs to be a lot of tension.
how stupid do you hav to be to not be able to strap in a bike lol